Oslo Exit

Well, it's my final few minutes in Oslo, and the place has finally grown on me. It's rare that I get spooked by a location, but this neighborhood did it, so I didn't wander again after dinner last night. Instead I got up early to see some more before I have to check out and catch my train, and before the bad seeds get out of bed. Apparently my free hotel innernets access has run out, though, so this won't be posted until who knows when.

Because I didn't have any particular agenda, I just went walking around to see what I came across. That meant that I missed most of the city, and although I'm near the harbor, I didn't have time to catch the ferry and see all the cool viking stuff across the water. I guess if I ever get WAY richer, I'll have to come spend a few days here and see more. Right now, the cost is prohibitive, though, and I'd rather get to spend more time in several places than blow the same amount on 3 days here.

It's interesting how matter of fact and do-it-yourself the Nords seem to be; they'll just tell you "there's coffee over there" or "[the historical site you're looking for] is that direction, you can't miss it," and then go back to their own business. Self-sufficiency, I like it! This is also related to my favorite English translation from the hotel, which is this single context-free sentence, nestled between the minibar prices and a plug for the spa:

You are welcome to make your own waffles in the afternoon from 3 pm to 6 pm.

Why, thank you! I've always wanted to make my own waffles in the afternoon, but until now, I'd never been given permission. What amuses me is that there's no information about where, or how, or what's involved, just a simple statement that you can make some waffles, if you're so inclined.

Another excellent Scandinavian discovery: Pomegranate Cider. It's just a smidge sweet, but it's still fantastic. Apparently it's actually from Sweden, so I'll have 2 more days to investigate this one. Although thanks to the educational video Full like a Kastrull, I know that Sweden has strict laws around alcohol, and I may have trouble purchasing it. I hope I can get my hands on some more - I love it!

But for now, it's time now to finish my coffee, shut down the laptop, and hit the road, since I have a 4 hour train ride ahead of me. Hope to have wi-fi again soon...

Oslo

Well, if Amsterdam was the most crazy-busy place I've ever seen, Oslo is the most crazy-CRAZY. It might have something to do with my hotel being in a vaguely sketchy part of town, but so far everyone seems totally NUTS. In order to turn the lights on in my hotel room, I have to insert the key card in a special slot. Without it, no power to the room. Sounds like a good way to forget the key and lock myself out.

Oslo's not very English-friendly either. Often I see signs in 2 or 3 languages, but none of them are English. I guess that's what I get for assuming Imperialism would save me, no matter where I go in the world. Damn you Norwegians for being your own dominant force and rejecting the Anglo ways!

Flying in, Norway wasn't at all what I expected either. From the air, after you pass the fjords, all you can see are rolling hills and dense forests. They are first speckled with lakes, then a few towns, then farmland, with nothing but wilderness in between. Not exactly what you'd think would be so close to a place the size of Oslo.

When I got settled, I didn't have any specific destinations in mind, so I just wandered out toward what looked like civilization, and of course ended up in a shopping district. In general, Oslo has kind of a Seattle vibe. No, not like Ballard! What I mean is that it seems pretty laid back, and while it's a densely populated city, it still feels small. And instead of Starbucks on every corner, there's an H&M store.

By the way, for those who think I exaggerate about the... erm... interesting nature of my mother, here's an unedited e-mail she sent the day before I left Seattle:

I just had a tour group from Norway and they said to tell Starbucks that people in Norway LOVE Starbucks but they don't have any stores in Norway. One woman said everyone asked her to bring Starbuck products back as souvenirs for them. Check it out when you are in Oslo.

Indeed. I did "tell Starbucks" and am now "checking out" the lack of stores here. Good thing I brought my own coffee... Anyway.

After avoiding temptation at several stores, I grabbed a few snacks and came back here for a break from the heat -- it's sunny and around 70 here, but with the low sun again, it's brutal for a pale girl like me to take for long. While in the little convenience store, a guy said something to me in (I assume) Norwegian, and motioned toward the counter. I thought he was telling me to go ahead, so I smiled and moved forward. He repeated whatever he'd said earlier, but angrily this time, so I told him that I was sorry, and I only spoke English. This seemed to piss him off even more. "English! Get it out faster! I need to know where is the fastest toilet! I have to go to the bathroom!" When I shrugged, he turned to the store clerk and yelled louder, "I need to know where is the fastest toilet!" The guy behind the counter shook his head, and the angry man stomped off, cursing everyone in two languages.

See? Crazy-crazy.

Meanwhile, men in cars keep slowing down and looking at me as they go by. It might have something to do with the dodgy area I'm staying in, along with the fact that my messenger bag has given me a noticeable purple hickie-like spot on my neck, in return for shlepping it from country to country. Regardless, I don't think I'll be staying out very late tonight, even though the sun won't go down until around 10:30. Don't worry about me, I might be mildly insane, but I'm not stupid.

It's a shame, because I only have the one night here and don't want to waste it. Maybe later I'll find some non-shady dinner and pick up a few gifts in the decent part of town. Off to Sweden tomorrow afternoon...

Naptime

At home, I can never nap. It's not from lack of desire, I just don't have the ability. On vacation, I always nap. I'm not sure why, I guess the relaxation just gets the best of me. Today, napping was a big mistake.

After my last post, I plopped on the bed to put my feet up for a few minutes before going out again, and immediately crashed out. I woke up feeling a mess. I've been completely adjusted for the last 3 days, and suddenly now I've given myself jet lag? After having it together since Day Two, now my shit is all apart?

Not cool. I blame the creepy people on the headboard.

I figured I'd be fine if I just went out and got some dinner, got to walking around again. But the moment I left, my head was in a fog and my attitude surly. The streets I'd been walking all day, that I had gotten to know, were confusing and unfamiliar. I hated everyone walking around or lounging in the sun, and wanted to punch the cyclists who zoomed by too closely. I had to come back to my room; I was officially a danger to myself and others.

This is a bad sign. I don't want to have to readjust every other day, or be punished for relaxing. I also don't want to miss out on enjoying the places I visit, just because my sleep patterns are so screwed up.

I'm drinking a nice Westmalle dubbel in an attempt to rally; if anything will make me human again, it's beer, right? Right?!

(sigh)

Amsterdam

Having spent several hours over the last 2 days wandering Amsterdam, I've come to one conclusion: I feel weird being a tourist here.

Today I checked out Dam Square, which is a big mess of construction right now, and happened past the Anne Frank house and a couple of museums, but I didn't go into the places, or take a single photo. I could see myself living here, working here, but not visiting historical sites and taking pictures of buildings. I feel strange doing it, so I haven't.

I've shopped, had lunch, got holla'd at by a couple of guys with dredlocks (I don't speak dutch, so I have no idea what they were saying, but they were clearly upset that I wasn't responding), and just generally been here. I don't know what else to do with myself.

It's a beautiful sunny day out, mid-sixties temperatures, so I guess I'll just continue to hang out and feel weird being a tourist for the rest of the day. I'm thinking it will be pretty boring: dinner, beer, sitting around in the sun, then back here to get ready for my flight to Norway in the morning.

I know, I just can't be pleased. Too touristy, then not touristy enough! Maybe one of the next 4 cities will get it just right for Goldilocks.

Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. And Amsterdam.

After a bus back to the airport, three hours on a plane, a train ride, and a brief walk, I'm finally on the second leg of my trip.

Amsterdam is by far the craziest city I've ever been to. The airport is a zoo, the train station is chaotic, and the streets? Well. The sidewalks aren't much around the canals, so you find yourself walking down the middle of narrow brick streets, dodging cars, scooters, and motorcycles. And whether there are sidewalks or not, you're constantly contending with tons of maniacs on bicycles. So far all I've done is wander the canals and get a bite to eat, and I've already almost been run down a few times.

Oddly, though, I think I could like it here... if I ever got used to the insanity.

For now, though, cramped seats and constant walking have my joints in pain, so I've come back my hotel room for a brief respite. The place I'm staying is called Chic and Basic, but it's definitely more basic than chic. Luckily I always book double rooms, even when traveling alone, so I at least have a bit of space to open my suitcase and still take 2-3 steps in either direction. I think the chic part of room lies in the modular Ikea furniture, and the fact that this is the headboard of my bed:

Creepy, no? I hope it doesn't give me bad dreams.