Friday 23 November 2012

Luxembourg

I’m about to end my time in Luxembourg, and I’m still not sure what I think. The only word I can come up with is cold.  The temperatures have been in the 30s and low 40s, with rain and fog to increase the chill, but that’s not all. I get the sense that the people here are not particularly friendly. Maybe it’s just because I don’t speak their language(s), or look like an outsider… but they don’t seem to be particularly chatty with each other either.

In my time here, I’ve only had one interaction with someone not part of a service staff. I popped into the Top Affair supermarché for a cheap snack, and ended up in line behind two young guys who were using some kind of lunch vouchers to buy such healthy items as cookies, chocolate milk, and mentos. They were clearly down on their luck, and kept asking the clerk for one thing after another, taking ages to complete the transaction. I heard a low voice coming from behind me. Assuming the woman next in line was just muttering to herself, I glanced back to find that she was actually attempting to commiserate with me, quietly and in Luxembourgish. Since I had no idea what she was saying,  but could see her disdain without any translation, I just gave her an understanding smile and shook my head at the boys ahead of us.

Despite Luxembourg having 3 official languages, none of which I really speak, I’ve been able to get by without asking for English. Per the Musée d’Histoire de la Ville de Luxembourg, Luxembourgish (Lëtzebuergesch) is the primary language people speak in their day to day lives, while the press is typically in German, and business/administrative affairs are handled in French. Since that includes things like shops, and  I understand enough French to say, buy a sandwich and a beer, I’ve muddled through.  

According to what I learned at the history museum, Luxembourgish is a fairly new language, adopted widely to help differentiate the citizens from neighbors and former occupiers France and Germany. The use of other languages continues only due to tradition, and Lëtzebuergesch is central to the national identity.

Maybe the history contributes to the closed off nature of the Luxembourgers. Or maybe their coldness shaped the history. They’ve managed to avoid being taken over by the superpowers around them, and maintained a distinct culture of their own in the process. Maybe keeping to themselves is part of that culture.

Not that I’m one to talk… Loner that I am…

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